Discover wild mountains, historic cities, and genuine hospitality while backpacking through Bosnia and Herzegovina. Get concrete tips on routes, budgets, and seasons.
Bosnia and Herzegovina is a backpacker's dream, yet it remains wonderfully off the beaten path. Nestled in the heart of the Balkans, this country offers a stunning mix of rugged mountains, turquoise rivers, and cities pulsing with history. For the independent traveler from the Netherlands or Belgium, it’s an opportunity to experience epic landscapes and genuine hospitality, all on a very affordable budget. Forget the crowded trails of Western Europe; here, you can find true adventure.
Your journey will likely start in Sarajevo, a city that immediately captivates. It’s a place where East meets West, with Ottoman-era bazaars just a stone's throw from Austro-Hungarian facades. Spend your days getting lost in the cobbled streets of Baščaršija, the old town, sipping strong Bosnian coffee and trying local delicacies like ćevapi and burek. But Sarajevo is more than just its charming centre. To truly understand its soul, you must engage with its recent, painful past. Visit the War Childhood Museum or take a "siege tour" to learn about the 1990s conflict from local guides. It’s a sobering but essential experience that adds profound depth to your travels.
From Sarajevo, head south into the Herzegovina region. The landscape changes dramatically as you leave the Bosnian mountains, giving way to a more Mediterranean feel. The star of the show is Mostar, home to the iconic Stari Most (Old Bridge). Rebuilt after the war, this UNESCO World Heritage site is a powerful symbol of reconciliation. Watching the local divers plunge from the bridge into the Neretva River is a rite of passage. But don't just stick to the bridge; explore the winding streets on both sides of the river, discover hidden mosques, and enjoy the views from the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque.
Herzegovina has more to offer than just Mostar. A short bus ride away lies Blagaj, a village built around the stunning Vrelo Bune, the source of the Buna river. Here, a 16th-century Dervish monastery is picturesquely tucked into the base of a cliff. Further on, you can visit the medieval town of Počitelj, which tumbles down a hillside towards the Neretva, or cool off at the Kravica Waterfalls, a series of cascades perfect for a summer swim. Renting a car for a day or joining a local tour is the best way to tick off these sights.
For those seeking raw nature, Bosnia and Herzegovina is a treasure trove. Sutjeska National Park, in the country's east, is a primeval wilderness. It’s home to the Perućica forest, one of the last two remaining primeval forests in Europe, and Maglić, the country's highest peak. Hiking here is challenging and immensely rewarding, with trails leading to stunning glacial lakes like Trnovačko Jezero. This is not for the faint-hearted; you’ll need good preparation and preferably a local guide, as trails can be poorly marked and the terrain is demanding.
Another fantastic option is Una National Park in the northwest, near the city of Bihać. This park protects the pristine Una, Unac, and Krka rivers. The main attraction is Štrbački Buk, a spectacular series of waterfalls. The park is perfect for rafting, kayaking, hiking, and cycling. It’s more accessible than Sutjeska and offers a great mix of adventure and relaxation. You can stay in nearby towns like Bihać or Kulen Vakuf, enjoying local hospitality and fresh trout from the river.
What truly makes backpacking in Bosnia and Herzegovina special is the people. The country has a reputation for incredible hospitality (merak). Don't be surprised if you're invited for coffee or rakija (the local fruit brandy) by someone you've just met. Take these opportunities! These interactions offer a glimpse into the local way of life that you won't find in any guidebook. Staying in guesthouses and family-run pensions is a great way to facilitate this. Not only is it affordable, but your hosts are often a goldmine of information, offering tips on where to go, what to eat, and how to get around. It’s these personal connections that will likely become your most cherished memories of this complex and beautiful country.
Reaching Bosnia and Herzegovina from the Netherlands or Belgium is most practically done by plane. Wizz Air often has direct flights from Eindhoven or Charleroi to Sarajevo or Tuzla, offering the quickest entry point. A more adventurous option is the train, a multi-day journey via Germany, Austria, and Croatia, which is an experience in itself. Alternatively, driving takes about 16-18 hours, a viable option if you plan an extended stay or a larger Balkan road trip.
Once you arrive, a classic 10-day backpacking route could look like this: Start with 3 days in Sarajevo to soak in the culture and history. From there, take a 2.5-hour morning bus to Konjic, a small town perfect for an afternoon of exploring before you continue another hour by bus to Mostar for 3 days. Use Mostar as a base to visit Blagaj, Počitelj, and Kravica falls. Afterwards, take a bus to Jajce for 1 day to see the incredible waterfall in the town centre. Finally, travel to Banja Luka for 2 days, the capital of the Republika Srpska entity, to experience a different side of the country before flying out or continuing to Croatia.
For nature lovers, an alternative route would be: After Sarajevo, head east towards Sutjeska National Park for 2-3 days of serious hiking (note: this requires more planning and a rental car or pre-booked tour is advised). Then, cut back west towards Sarajevo and continue to Una National Park near Bihać for 3 days of rafting and exploring the waterfalls. This route is more demanding logistically but incredibly rewarding for its pristine landscapes.
A typical day backpacking here blends sightseeing with slow, enjoyable moments. You might wake up in a hostel in Sarajevo, grab a 'burek sa sirom' (cheese-filled pastry) for breakfast from a local 'pekara' (bakery) for about €1.50. You spend the morning on a free walking tour, learning about the city’s complex history. For lunch, you find a small 'ćevabdžinica' in the old town and feast on a full plate of ćevapi with onions and bread for €4-5. The afternoon is for sipping Bosnian coffee, a process that can easily last an hour, at a cafe overlooking the city. As evening approaches, you gather with fellow travellers at the hostel, share a cheap local beer, and head out to a restaurant recommended by your host, where a hearty dinner costs no more than €10. It’s a rhythm that is both incredibly affordable and deeply satisfying.
Many first-time visitors make a few avoidable mistakes. The first is underestimating travel times. While distances on a map look short, roads can be winding and slow, and buses make many stops. A 100km journey can easily take 2-3 hours. The second mistake is only visiting Sarajevo and Mostar. While both are fantastic, they only show one side of the country. Make an effort to visit smaller towns like Jajce or Trebinje, or a national park, to get a fuller picture. Another error is being shy. Bosnians can seem reserved at first, but they are incredibly welcoming. Engaging with locals, asking for directions, or accepting an invitation for coffee can lead to the best travel experiences. Finally, don't treat the war as a tourist attraction. Be respectful when visiting sites related to the conflict, listen more than you talk, and avoid taking inappropriate selfies.
Yes, it is very safe for tourists. Violent crime against foreigners is rare. The main things to be aware of are petty theft in busy areas and the risk of unexploded landmines in remote, marked rural areas, so always stick to paths.
It's one of Europe's most affordable destinations. A budget backpacker can get by on €30-€40 per day, covering a dorm bed, food, and some activities. A more comfortable budget would be around €50-€60 per day.
Buses are the primary mode of transport between cities and towns. They are cheap and connect most places you'll want to visit. For exploring remote natural areas like national parks, renting a car for a day or two is a good idea.
In tourist areas, hostels, and hotels, many younger people speak excellent English. In more rural areas or among the older generation, this is less common. Learning a few basic Bosnian phrases will be very helpful and appreciated.
The official currency is the Bosnian Convertible Mark (BAM or KM). While some places in tourist hotspots might accept Euros, it is best to use the local currency for everything. ATMs are widely available in cities.
Yes, the tap water is generally safe to drink throughout the country, especially in cities like Sarajevo. The mountain water is famously pure.
For citizens of the EU, including the Netherlands and Belgium, you do not need a visa for stays of up to 90 days. You can enter with a valid passport or even an ID card.
Bosnian food is hearty, delicious, and very affordable. Expect lots of grilled meat (like ćevapi), pastries filled with meat or cheese (burek), and thick stews. Vegetarians might find options limited outside of major cities, but dishes like 'sirnica' (cheese pie) and fresh salads are usually available.